Just checking around and seeing what everbody thinks is there best recipe. No amounts or oz of hops need be posted, unless u feel like it.
This will make a pretty kick ass beer: Code: Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size: 6.00 gal Boil Size: 8.38 gal Estimated OG: 1.080 SG Estimated Color: 7.8 SRM Estimated IBU: 221.5 IBU Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Boil Time: 90 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amount Item Type % or IBU 13.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 76.47 % 2.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.76 % 1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.88 % 1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (Dry Hop 14 days) Hops - 3.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [16.80 %] (90 min) Hops 155.3 IBU 1.00 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (Dry Hop 14 days) Hops - 0.25 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops - 0.25 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 Hops - 0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops - 0.25 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 Hops - 1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 14 days) Hops - 1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (Dry Hop 14Hops - 0.75 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [16.80 %] (45 min) Hops 28.7 IBU 1.00 oz Chinook [10.00 %] (30 min) Hops 19.0 IBU 0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU 0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.80 %] (10 min) Hops 7.1 IBU 0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (10 min) Hops 4.5 IBU 0.50 oz Chinook [10.00 %] (10 min) Hops 4.5 IBU 0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (0 min) Hops - 0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] (0 min) Hops - 0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (0 min) Hops - 0.50 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (0 min) Hops - 1.00 lb Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 5.88 % 2 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale Mash at 150 and ferment at 67.
http://hopville.com/recipe/296359 100% Golden Promise Nugget, Cascade, Simcoe and Citra utilized Denny's Favorite yeast High mash temp for an IPA @ 156 Fermentation temp of 64 This beer blew me away
93% Pale Malt 6% C15 1% Acid Malt mash low in the 148 - 149 range keep mash ph around 5.3 - 5.4 chico yeast fermented in the 68 - 70F range 1.068 OG 1.011 FG 7.5% ABV roughly 85 ibu's total hops used: 25oz in a 10 gallon batch (13oz of the 25oz used for the 2 stage dry hopping) Columbus @ 60 Amarillo Gold @ 20, 5, 0 (flameout addition @ 120F) Citra @ 20, 5, 0 (flameout addition @ 120F) *Dry Hop 5 days with Amarillo, Citra, and Galaxy *Remove those dry hops *Dry Hop 4 more days with Simcoe, Citra, and Galaxy *or split the batch and dry hop one half of the batch with amarillo / citra / galaxy twice, and the other half of the batch with simcoe / citra / galaxy twice for two different variations.
One from the history books if you want something a little different;could be the first ever DIPA http://barclayperkins.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/lets-brew-wednesday-1868-william.html
I would love to pick apart that website, but my internet freezes up every time I go to it (the only site I have found to do so every time).
A couple weeks ago i put on probably the best IPA I've done. Huge saturated hop aromaand flavor, with nice balance of pine, citrus, fruit, dank etc. Enough maltiness and yeast character to play along, but stay out of the way mostly. West Coast IPA 88.5% American Pale Ale Malt 5.8% Flaked Wheat 3.8% CaraPils 1.9% (by weight) Table Sugar OG 1.066 Mash at 152 F 133 (estimated) IBUs Columbus and HopShot to bitter Simcoe @ 10 min. Hop Stand with Citra and Centennial Hop Back with Citra and Centennial Dry Hop with Simcoe and Citra Keg Hop with Simcoe and Citra Fermented with White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale For me a great IPA is just about as much about process as recipe. Getting the water right, minizing O2 pick-up, getting the best hops etc. My IPAs were never great until I started kegging. Recipe/Process Details: http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/12/west-coast-ipa-recipe-hop-oil-analysis.html
My theory on this is a balance between conditioning times and freshness. Bottling and proper priming times at room temp allow some of those aromas and flavors to fade away. I also saw a huge improvement when I started kegging, but I was also drinking it a week or two after transfering into the keg.
House IPA 100% Rahr Pale Ale Malt (if you want more color use Extra Dark Crystal 3oz or so, ends up dark gold) 60- 1.0 Chinook 20- .50 Simcoe 10- 1.0 Simcoe, 1.5Amarillo 0- 1.0 Simcoe, 1.5 Amarillo DH- 2.0 Simcoe, 2.0 Amarillo 5.5 Gallons OG-1.065 FG 1.009 Mash 152 Yeast US-05 Another that is a huge hit with everyone Galactic Millennium IPA 92% Rahr Pale Ale Malt 5% Table Sugar (I just usually use .50 lbs) 3% Crystal 15L 60- .50 Millennium 20- .50 Galaxy 10- 2.0 Galaxy 0- 2.0 Galaxy DH- 2.0 Galaxy .50 Millennium (this adds a little herbal twist to the overwhelming passionfruit) All the rest same as above
Time is a big part of it, but being able to store the whole batch cold through carbonation and drinking helps too. Being able to flush with CO2 reduces oxidation, which means the fresh hop aroma last longer as well. I’m a big believer in keg hops, hard to beat drinking a hoppy beer that was sitting on the dry hops until moments before you drink it!
Mine freezes if I visit with Internet Explorer. If I use Safari (apple's browser) that doesn't happen. Ron suggested Firefox works well with it. I also believe I have had success with google chrome.
+1. My IPAs got much better after I started kegging, which included purging with CO2 and dry hopping in the keg. One of my IPAs scored very well after 4 months in the keg. If one were to believe what they read over on the Beer Talk forum, a 4 month old IPA should have been ready for the drain.
Cold storage was the part of my theory I didn't mention. Reducing oxidation is a good point, but I am not sure that a pressurized bottle doesn't reduce the oxygen anyway. Keg hops are great, and I never remove them either...especially for an IPA.
Unless you're purging your bottles with CO2, you're definitely getting more oxygen than you are by racking into a purged keg. I also purge my auto-siphon by putting it into my purged keg and pumping it a few times. I rarely bottle IPAs anymore but when I do, I notice they take on an unpleasant aroma that I can only compare to rotten fruit. Most people that drink them don't even notice it, but it's something I've been able to pick up by comparing the same beer of which half was kegged and the other half was bottled. I can only assume it is the effect of aroma compounds oxidizing in the bottle.
The other issue with bottles is that even if you use an oxygen scavenging/absorbing cap, the polymer also absorbs hop aromatics. One of the big reasons the brewery I'm working with (Modern Times) will be canning.
Here's my 2 tested and proven recipes CropDuster IPA Canadian 2 Row C-40 WhiteWeat FW-Warrior Hopshot 2 ml 15-0.5Galaxy/0.5 Nelson 10-0.5Galaxy/0.5 nelson 5-1.0 Neslon 0- 2oz Nelson/1oz Galaxy Cool to 100f hopstand/whril 30min US-05@68 Dry hop 1.5 oz of each Pellets 3.5 days, cold crash 4 days @39 till pellest drop Keg Portuguese man o' war DBL IPA Canadian 2 row C-40 for Sugar FW warrior Hop shot 15 Citra /0.5 Galaxy 10 Citra 0.75/0.5 Galaxy 3-2.0 Citra/ 1.0 Galaxy 0-2.0 Citra/1.0 Galaxy hop stand 30 min +whirlpool US-05 2 packs 68 then up to 72 Dry hop 2 oz each citra/galaxy and a touch of simcoe
I have been exploring the site for a while now that I know I can get around on my IPad, oh the wife will love me for a few days
Ive gotten amazing feedback from anyone thats tried this beer. Including the reps from Bluepoint Brewing and a brewer from Mile Marker. Also had a few other homebrewers make this to great satisfaction. Badfish IIPA Batch Size 6 gal OG - 1.096 FG - 1.012 or 1.016 if you sub for the Belgian Candi Sugar Yeast - US05 IBU - 68 ABV 11.5% # of days - 17 in primary Dry hop - 7-10 days Ferm temp 65f Grain Bill........single infusion mash @ 155 for 1 hour. Fly sparged to preboil volume. 18# 2Row 2# Crystal 40 .5# Carapils .5# White wheat Boil 1oz Simcoe @ 60min 1# Table Sugar @ 30min........If you like a sweeter IPA sub the table sugar for Belgian Candi Sugar Irish Moss @ 15min 2oz Centennial @ 15min 1oz Citra @ 10min 1oz Amarillo @ 10 min 1oz Citra @ 5 min 1oz Amarillo @ 5min 1oz Citra @ flameout 1oz Amarillo @ flameout Dry Hop 2oz Citra and 1oz Amarillo added after 17 days
This recipe scored a 43 in competition. It was rejected from the BOS round for being too dark (true) and needing more hop aroma (??): For 10 gallons: 27lb Best Malz pils. 2lb Best Malz Munich II (a mistake; I intended to use Munich I, hence the excessive color). 1lb Weyermann caramunich 40. 2lb cane sugar. 1.0oz Columbus pellets (First wort hop). 2oz Centennial pellets @ 15 minutes. 1oz Columbus pellets @ 15 minutes. 1oz Chinook pellets @ 15 minutes. 2oz Centennial pellets @ flameout. 2oz Chinook pellets @ flameout. 1oz Columbus pellets @ flameout. 2oz Columbus pellets - 14 day dry hop. 2oz Centennial pellets - 14 day dry hop. 2oz Chinook pellets - 14 day dry hop. 1oz Columbus pellets - 7 day dry hop. 1oz Centennial pellets - 7 day dry hop. 1oz Chinook pellets - 7 day dry hop. Yeast starter grown from a bottle of SNPA. 200ppm sulfate as gypsum to my soft water. Mash at 150F for 60 minutes. 90 minute boil. OG = 1.076, FG = 1.011. But I think the best IPA I've made so far is this single IPA recipe (10 gallons): 11lb Bairds pale ale malt 11lb Best Malz pils malt. 1lb Best Malz cara pils. 1.0oz Galena pellets @ 60 minutes. 2oz Cascade pellets @ 15 minutes. 2oz Columbus pellets @ 15 minutes. 2oz Columbus pellets to whirlpool after it cooled to 170F. 2oz Cascade pellets to whirlpool after it cooled to 170F. 4oz Cascade pellets - dry hop 7 days. 2oz Columbus pellets - dry hop 7 days. Water treatment and boil as above. OG = 1.062, FG = 1.010.
6lbs LME 1lb crystal 20 1.5lb vienna 1.5lb munich .5oz magnum. @60 .5oz citra @ 15min .5 oz citra @ flameout 1oz citra in secondary for 1 week Whileactually being an american pale it turned out to be an amazing brew. When I have the money to go all grain I would like to experiment more with the malt bill, maybe some marris otter in the base to get a little more of that nutty flavor.
The best part is, all those hops are relatively easy to get by the pound year around. That's the main reason I developed that recipe. It's my go to DIPA. Sometimes I'll even cut down on the bittering addition and get it to about 90 IBU if I want something a little more balanced.
I have a basic grist that works really well. 11# Pale Malt 12oz C-40 12oz Munich 12oz Vienna Toss in some FWH, and then make additons late, 10, 7, 5, 1, and whirlpool/0 min additons with a heavy dry hop. Roughly 5-6 ounces in the boil, 2-4 ounces in the dry hop. Generally hits 1.065/1.067 and finishes around 1.010. Mashing at 152. I have a Belma/Galaxy IPA in the keg right now that is so freakin' good.. Kicked a little Cascade in it, and man it's probably one of the best tasting, easy drinking, balanced IPA's I've made to date. Hits the spot each and every time.
Sierra Nevada calls it 'scalping'. This has been talked about on the internet, here is a search result. http://captainsbeerblog.com/2010/03/23/fading-hops/ I think this is also mentioned in Hops by Hieronymus.
Exactly, one of the big reasons why the brewery I'm working with (Modern Times) opted for cans instead of bottles (especially with all the recipes for hoppy beers we're developing).
Very interesting! Thanks for the article. As I read it, though, the process described is volatile oils/aromatics being pushed past the liner and out of the bottle altogether, as opposed absorption into the polymer the cap is made of. Perhaps I am misunderstanding it though. Just to clarify, I don't doubt that hops dissipate with age, but I am just interested in the various mechanisms by which it happens.
This is the only article I was able to find that mentions the cap itself absorbing aromatics: http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.1/tinseth.html But it is lacking in data, and doesn't provide any conclusions specifically about O2 absorbing caps. Still a very interesting article.
I really like the Columbus/Cascade combo as well. It makes for a very classic-type ipa. I brewed a double ipa with turbinado sugar and crystal 120 that turned out pretty awesome.
Some say just smell the cap when you open the bottle, and there is a lot of aroma that come off it. You also need to understand that Sierra Nevada changed from twist off to pry off for a better seal with a new better liner material. The new material and cap let 1/20th the amount of O2 in to the beer. The O2 is forced in by the partial pressure of the O2. If O2 gets in, I also see that aromatics can get out.
Interesting. It would be cool to see some hard data on this - say, LCMS of sampled cap liner to see if it contains hop compounds. I doubt that work has been done though. We need to get the gov't to start funding brewing research.
That looks delicious! I may have to try something similar soon! My best IPA so far has been an extract IPA with specialty grains, and cascade and willlamette hops. For an extract IPA, it was very good (other homebrewers liked it too). I have no equivalently good AG IPA (yet).
My understanding of the scalping process as detailed by the Sierra Nevada folks is exactly the same as yours: it is a problem of the hop aroma dissipating out of the crown liner/cap. It is also my understanding that this is exacerbated by agitation, which is something that a homebrew sitting in your basement (or wherever) should not experience. “According to Nielsen, agitation during shipping can be a significant contributing factor to degradation in aroma. As a beer sits on delivery trucks and eventually finds it way to your local liquor store, the beer’s aromas can be kicked up through the head space and slowly forced out of the crown liner, a process Sierra Nevada refers to as scalping. Nielsen also says oxygen will destroy hop aroma very quickly, whether naturally over time, or through the bottling process.” I have no technical information concerning the topic of the crown liner absorbing hop aroma. I would like to read some papers on that topic. Cheers!
